The Hopeful Traveler

Monday, September 20, 2010

Renaissance Chancery Court Hotel: The Facade

Hotel facade along High Holborn with the 166-foot-high cupola as centerpiece.

One of the attractions of hotels in London and other major European cities is many of them have a history before they became a hotel. Some of the structures were built nearly a century ago and repurposed into a hotel. Sure there are modern monolithic hotels similar to the kind found in New York City, but staying in one that has architecture from the past adds to the London experience.

The structure that now houses the Renaissance Chancery Court Hotel was built in 1914. It formerly served as headquarters for the Pearl Assurance Company from 1914 to 1989. Located on High Holborn in the West End, this hotel opened in December 2000 and is one of several luxury hotels in London for the Marriott hotel group.

The imposing exterior is characterized by the 166-foot-high cupola as a centerpiece. Being this is the first time during my visit that I left the hotel by 9am, on this Monday I decided to take several photos of the hotel exteriors, a couple of them taken while having coffee at the Starbucks across the street.

The arched entryway for vehicles and pedestrians leads to the hotel courtyard.

A hotel associate always on duty at the entryway. On the left is the entrance to the Pearl Restaurant & Bar.

Taken from the Starbucks across the street, my room is the oval window at center with the drapes slightly drawn open.

Courtyard view of cupola from fifth floor hallway.

Hotel view from courtyard.

On more than one occasion a BMW, Mercedes or other luxury vehicle was parked in the courtyard. Sometimes a row of them.

Related Review Posts of Renaissance London Chancery Court Hotel:

The View from a Room

Public Areas

In Other Words, Do Not Disturb

Treat at the Renaissance

Pearl Restaurant & Bar

Chocolates Each Evening

Sunday, September 19, 2010

Oriental Delight for Chinatown Munchies

What do I find to wash down the pastries I bought down the street? A can of coconut juice. It's a warm London evening and I am thirsty. Found it in the Chinatown shop called Oriental Delight. Despite having the same name as a massage parlor, this is the kind of place you do not enter hungry. Sweets galore fill every shelf and corner with fridge cases full of drinks and frozen treats. All the products include descriptions in English to help you determine the taste or ingredients. I found the shop staff here friendly and the location fun to examine the huge of variety of goods stuffed into the small corner shop.

This shop is opened late along with the restaurants in Chinatown which makes it convenient for late evening snacks. The prices here are definitely overpriced compared to prices charged back in the States, but the convenience and selection sure is an attraction. With such a bright exterior, you can't miss it in the middle of Chinatown.

A Burst of Color in London Chinatown

It's Sunday evening and in lieu of a theatre performance is a visit to London's Chinatown in Soho. Like a burst of color in a world of grey, the lively and festive atmosphere is entrancing. Restaurant after restaurant line the streets especially Gerrard Street, Chinatown's main avenue blocked off to cars during peak hours. The restaurant choices appear to be too many it's a wonder how diners decide. But each restaurant has their menu brightly displayed to help persuade diners. It's funny to see how many visitors were particularly fascinated with the roasted ducks hanging in a restaurant window.

The original London Chinatown was located along the Thames River and in the early 1900s catered mostly to Chinese sailors. However the aerial bombing by the Germans in World War II damaged the area and most of the population moved on. After World War II with the influx of Hong Kong immigrants led to an increased number of Chinese restaurants in London. The present location of Chinatown did not begin to be established until the 1970s.

My main purpose this evening was to find something to eat before heading back to the hotel. The more I surveyed the menus, the more I realized I did not have the appetite for a full Asian dinner. So I opted to visit the Kowloon Restaurant & Cakeshop with their appetizing display of sweet and savory chinese pastries. Kowloon Bakery is known for their pineapple buns, jin deui (chewy doughnuts covered in sesame seeds and filled with sweet bean paste), nuomici (round sticky rice balls covered in coconut and filled with peanuts or sweet bean paste), marry girl cake (sweet sponge cake filled with lotus seed paste) and you tiao (golden deep-fried strips of dough).

There's a sense of organization here despite a lack of a formal line. Make your choices, pay and go. So I pointed to what looked good and let myself be surprised at what the flavors would be. My choices are below and they turned out to be (left to right) a pie filled with curry, another filled with a hard-boiled egg and a crunchy and nutty but lightly sweet twisted strip of pastry. An unusual meal for a Sunday night but still good for the price of £2 (US$3).

For more info about this vibrant neighborhood, visit chinatownlondon.org. Note: I visited Chinatown again later but during the afternoon. For that post click here.

Stage Door at 'Aspects of Love'

Autographed program.

Even though the Menier Chocolate Factory occupies the entire ground floor, the space is shared with its restaurant, art gallery, auditorium, box office and backstage. It's a tight fit with about 200 theater patrons and staff. One of the unusual aspects of the floor plan is the bar/box office/lobby all share the same space and serves as entry to the auditorium and backstage. Don't be surprised when exiting the play and encountering the performers along the way. There's no backstage door here behind the building.

Such was the case this Sunday evening when Michael Arden who played the role of Alex in 'Aspects of Love' stepped from the backstage door. Opportunity knocks so I asked for an autograph and photo. Just as polite as Jonathan Groff ('Deathtrap') and Ramin Karimloo ('Love Never Dies'), Arden was nice to ask where I was from and ask what plays I was seeing in London. His official website is at michaelarden.net.

By the way to enter the theater lobby and box office is through the restaurant. I did not know this so my first time at the theatre last week led me to a door on the opposite side of the building that the musicians and actors use to access the lobby. One of the musicians saw I was lost and said follow me I'll let you in.

Michael Arden and the Hopeful Travel in the lobby/bar.

Return to 'Aspects of Love' at the Menier Chocolate Factory

Further musings on ‘Apsects of Love’ upon seeing this production again, this time at a Sunday matinee. If you have read my previous posts from my travels, I usually see an Andrew Lloyd Webber musical twice being that he is my favorite composer. I am glad I did this one.

What I wanted to review this time are the changes that were made compared to the Aspects of Love (Remastered 1989 Original London Cast) which is the only definitive English language version available as no Broadway recording was made since the four London leads played the same parts in New York.

Each act opens with scenes in which the main female character Rose is on a theatre stage acting out her last lines in the play in which she is performing. These scenes are in English on the CD and in this production all the characters speak and sing French instead. It may be jarring for anyone who have not heard or seen the play but no major plot points is conveyed until the characters start to speak/sing in English a few minutes in. The director has made sure nothing is lost and mainly sets the locale as France.

The big anthem “Love Changes Everything” is sung in full at the end of Act 1 rather than at the beginning on the CD. This switch adds an emotional context based on the plot events preceding it. A minor scene where the characters supposedly completed building a wall in a vineyard has been amended to the characters finishing harvesting grapes.

Otherwise other changes are very slight. Even though the show was orchestrated for only eight musicians, the sound is full and grand in the intimate Menier Chocolate Factory theater space. The production was heading into its last week of performances and all were sold out except for Thursday night of which only a few last row seats were available. The box office was confident these last seats would sell out before then.

‘Aspects’ is one of Lloyd Webber’s rarely staged musicals. It was first produced in 1989 in London where it ran for three years and in 1990 on Broadway when the production ran almost a year. It has received productions here and there including two touring productions in England and a Canadian production that toured North America. A Japanese Aspects of Love production was recorded in that language. Even if this Menier production does not transfer or is never recorded, this is one production that I will always cherish to have seen. Yet I could see this production again and again.

All production photos used for illustration purposes only.

Chocolate Factory Makes 'Aspects of Love' Part 2

Tonight is a repeat viewing of 'Aspects of Love' at the Menier Chocolate Factory in London. Below is part two of excerpts from a July 2010 New York Times article about the unique theatre. The portions regarding 'Aspects' are edited below:

Dave Babani, the Chocolate Factory's 32-year-old artistic director, asked director Trevor Nunn if there was a musical of his that he would like to revisit on a smaller scale. Mr Nunn said 'Aspects of Love' which happened to be Mr. Babani's favorite Lloyd Webber score, and so the revivial was added to the calendar with a budget of £400,000 (US$612,000).

Mr. Nunn directed the original West End production of 'Aspects' in 1989 and the Broadway staging a year later, and he recalled that he and composer Andrew Lloyd Webber had conceived 'Aspects' as a sharp departure from blockbuster spectacles like their previous show, 'The Phantom of the Opera'.

Based on a 1955 novella by David Garnett, 'Aspects' begins with a love triangle of Europeans that grows in size and complexity over a 17-year period. Early ideas about gently balancing the love story with a small chamber orchestra and a simple design scheme soon gave way, however, to expectations of another Lloyd Webber mega-musical -- how will he follow-up 'Phanom"? -- and more music was written, and more cooks entered the producing kitchen.

"I can't really recall the precise moment when the original 'Aspects' went from small scale to big scale," Mr. Nunn said. "But i feel the story got swallosed up with those 17 or so musicians and the massive design.

The simplified revival, which has an 8-musician, 12-instrument band, has allowed Mr. Nunn to spend time working with his cast on the show's emotional arc. The first two weeks of rehearsal involved almost no music work; rather, he said, the cast read the lyrics, by Don Black and Charles Hart, as if they were dialogue and spent time improvising scenes to find nuances in tone, gestures, body language and readings.

Audiences leaving the theatre through lobby/bar.

Michael Arden, an American actor who plays Alex, the male lead in 'Aspects', said the feel of the Chocolate Factory forces actors "to be completely truthful with the material rather than try to emotionally projects, because there's no balcony to play to." He added, "The people are the driving forces of the shows here, not a crashing chandelier, not a turntable."

'Aspects' opened on July 15 to strong reviews from critics, who generally concluded that the unvarnished staging put the poignancy of the relationships in sharp relief. Some reviews suggested that the revival was good enough to move to the West End or even Broadway.

For future productions at the theater visit menierchocolatefactory.com. Click here for the part 1 post published on 9/17/10 or click here for the full NY Times article.

Euphorium Bakery in Thomas Neal's Centre

Behind this brick warehouse facade is a trendy shopping mall that feels like it was transported straight from a big American city. Thomas Neal's is filled with retailers that attracts a young hip crowd with such shops as Carhartt, Firetrap, Fred Perry, G-Star and Fat Face.

I was not feeling out of place however. The Donmar Warehouse where I saw a play a couple of days ago has an entrance to their box office inside the centre. Also it appeared the Euphorium Bakery here would attract a more varied audience including me. It's always difficult to find a place to eat in busy Covent Garden that's not crowded on an afternoon but on Sunday the crowds were sparse. This cafe looked pleasant and it was on the way to my hotel.

Euphorium Bakery advertising states "It's not magic, it's a monocellular orgasm" and is well known as one of London's finest artisan bakeries. So I could not resist and ordered a veggie pizza, cupcake, americano coffee and still water. Simple and quick, I would recommend this cafe if you happen to be here and short of time. Though I ate everything, it was fairly standard. Because their other pastries and savory items also looked delicious and the staff quick and friendly with their service, I would come back to try one of their other treats.

This Euphorium Bakery has eight locations in London. This location is on the basement level of Thomas Neal's (with entrances on Earlham Street and Shorts Gardens). Hours are Mon-Sat 10am-7pm and Sun 12pm-6pm. More info at euphoriumbakery.com. Go online at sevendials.co.uk to learn about the shops, restaurants and attractions in this part of Covent Garden.

'Jersey Boys' Day at the Prince Edward Theatre - The Venue

Here are a couple of daytime shots of the Jersey Boys marquee at the Prince Edward Theatre. Chinatown is so close to Soho where the theatre is situated, it was no problem to pass by the theatre on the way to the alleys and shops of Covent Garden. The pics below give a more accurate view of the theatre exterior that the evening shots posted yesterday.

Half-Price Theatre Tickets at tkts London

For those who are accustomed to using the half-price ticket booth in New York City or in other major cities, London does have one of their own. Also named tkts this location is unaffiliated with the same named booth on Broadway which is run by the Theatre Development Fund. The tkts London booth, located in Leicester Square, is run by the Society of London Theatre which uses profits for activities in the theatre industry.

On my way past Leicester Square again, I decided to check out the booth offerings. Since it was Sunday there were only a few shows on sale including 'Jersey Boys', 'The Lion King' and 'Stomp'. Most West End theatres do not offer Sunday matinees or evening performances so the choices are slim.

Unlike the tkts booth in NYC, the London booth does sale advance tickets (both discount and full-price) not only for next day matinees but for many other performances at a discount. These are not listed on the bulletin boards outside the booth and an inquiry will have to be made at one of the tkts windows. Because there are many discount ticket sellers in London, many visitors often bypass this booth. Also the lines that normally snake around the tkts in NYC are absent in London so there is no need to arrive an hour early to assure yourself a ticket. Like NYC, ticket availability can vary through the day.

But be warned if you avoid this booth for other ticket clearinghouses. Booking fees can be high and seat choices poor at other booths.

For more information visit tkts.co.uk. The Leicester Square tkts is open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm and Sun 11am-4pm. Cash and credit cards are accepted (except for American Express). A service charge of three pounds is applied to all tickets excluding tickets purchased at full price.

Trafalgar Square Daytime and Nighttime: Two Photos

Trying my hand at some creative photography. The photo on the right was taken last night. When I visited Trafalgar this morning, I tried to duplicate the shot (above) but forgetting the original was in the portrait mode.

The photos from this series of London posts were either taken using a Kodak EasyShare M109315 or the original iPhone from 2007. The camera is about a year old but the iPhone is three. Yes, I know I should upgrade. But I'm trying to get my investment worth and waiting till it finally kills over which may be very soon. I love the Kodak camera. It's quick and easy to use, takes great photos (although the user doesn't always). Even though it's a little thicker than the iPhone, the length is shorter and fits comfortably in my pocket and always ready to use.

Trafalgar Square: London's Most Visited Attraction

Trafalgar Square viewed from National Gallery steps.

Zoom view: Big Ben & Clock Tower in the distance.

At more than 15 million visitors annually, Trafalgar Square is the number one visitor attraction in London as ranked by Forbes magazine. To admire this sight is one thing and to watch the throngs of tourists is another.

Here is what I wrote in a 2007 post to describe Trafalgar Square: "Admiral Lord Horatio Nelson stands atop a 185-foot tall granite column in commemoration of his victory over the French at the 1805 Battle of Trafalgar. Part of this 1842 memorial is made from his victims melted-down cannons. He’s surrounded by spraying fountains, giant lions. Until recently one of the biggest attractions of the square was the thousands of pigeons. London’s mayor had decided that London’s “flying rats” were a public nuisance and evicted the seed salesman. Feeding pigeons is now forbidden. Along the northern perimeter of the square is the National Portrait Gallery, location of the most comprehensive portrait collection in the world; and the National Gallery, home to the nation's collection of Western European art."

National Gallery on north side.

What makes Trafalgar Square so popular? History and sights face visitors from all angles. You could spend a good part of a the day enjoying the square and sights immediately surrounding it. The vast open space is friendly enough to hold the hundreds of visitors that congregate here daily. I've come to learn that where tourists go, other tourists follow. The several roads that lead from the square will likely lead you to other important attractions in the city. The people watching here is interesting especially observing the lengths visitors will go to take a photo (e.g. climbing the base of Nelson's column). Best of all its free to visit and okay to feel like tourist here. (Tube: Charing Cross)

One of two fountains in the square.

From south side looking west towards at the Admiralty Arch.

St Martin-in-the-Field Church at the north east corner.

East side of the square.

Whitehall (street) on south side.

View of square from King Charles Island.

Holborn Underground: Point A to Everywhere

When using the London Underground, find the station nearest to your hotel. It is possible there may be even two stations that are convenient. This will be your home base when traveling on the Underground to all sights in London near and far.

The London Underground is very easy to use. Click here for my previous posts about finding your way on the Underground. This time my base station was Holborn on the corner of High Holborn and Kingsway less than a five-minute walk from the Renaissance Chancery Court Hotel.

The station first opened in 1906 and has undergone various configurations and mondernizations. Today it serves the Picadilly Line and Central Line and as a transfer point between these two. The station's set of four escalators (pictured below) down to the central concourse is among the longest in the Underground network. An additional set of escalators go down to the platforms of the Piccadilly Line.

This station is quite busy on the weekdays serving office workers heading to buildings on the edge of the business district and those working in or visiting Covent Garden. On weekend mornings the station is much quieter as on this Sunday. Due to Holborn Station's close proximity to the British Museum, the platforms includes images of museum artifacts.

One point of advice. Use this station or the Leicester Square Station when visiting Covent Garden. The Covent Garden Station is probably the most congested station in the network. Access to the tube platforms is via a set of four elevators. There are no escalators but there is a spiral stairway made up of 193 steps. On most evenings, crowds are stuck waiting in line outside just to enter the station. Holborn and Leicester Square Stations are only a few minutes walk to Covent Garden and will save you from a bout of claustrophobia.

Pearl Restaurant & Bar at the Renaissance

One million individually hand-strung pearls is reported to adorn the Renaissance Chancery Court's main restaurant called Pearl Restaurant & Bar. Executive Head Chef Jun Tanaka has created a French menu in one of the most pleasing looking venues in all of London. Polished walnut, rare marble and Mother of Pearl inlays complement the strands of pearls.

Just the list of proteins in the sample menu says dining here will be unique: pigeon, rabbit, partridge, langoustine (large prawn or little lobster depending who you ask) and brill (flatfish) listed among the offerings.

Photos of the lunch and dining options looked beautiful and similar to the exquisite bites of food I often see on the television realty series "Top Chef" with foams and purees. However with the average price around £45 (US$70) and as much as I wanted to experience a meal from a respected chef, I passed on dining here for lunch and dinner and opted for something more reasonable for a full meal, such as at Joe Allen's, or fast and quick from the cafes nearby.

So not to totally pass up the opportunity, I had breakfast here instead on this Sunday morning. Anyway most restaurants in London are closed or open late on Sunday mornings so choices are limited.

Bar turned into the breakfast buffet table.

Since my hotel rate was paid using points, my entire stay did not include the full English buffet that normally is built into the daily rate. But how expensive can breakfast be? In London and the luxurious surroundings of the Chancery Court Hotel, it is. The bill was £22.50 (US$35).

Displayed across the restaurant's bar was the whole array of the full buffet breakfast: eggs, bacon, sausage, fruits, cereals, breads, cheeses, pastries, coffee, juice and more. It was comparable to other buffets I have had at other London hotels. Filling and good and at its hefty price I ate till contented. I did appreciate that the server brought a carafe of coffee so there was no need to request for more.

By the way the menu of Tanaka is actually served only for lunch or dinner. I imagine the high-end menu is meant to be attractive for the business clientele that this hotel caters to or the crowd in suits from the nearby offices. The Chancery Court's other dining options are a separate hotel bar next door that was busy in the evenings and a lounge restaurant offering lunch and afternoon tea.

Pearl Restaurant is open Mon-Fri 12pm-2:30pm and dinner Mon-Sat 6pm-10pm. Pearl Bar is open Mon-Fri 11am-11pm; Sat 6pm-11pm. Reservations recommended. Tube: Holborn. More info at pearl-restaurant.com.